Bradshaw in paradise; a day of great rail journeys.
We chugged away overnight, arriving in Uzhhorod on time at 07:54 hrs. I went to the ticket office to obtain a ticket for the short ride to Chop, the Ukrainian border town; the train was scheduled for 08:28 hrs which conveniently left just sufficient time for a quick dash to my favourite little café; breakfast of coffee and a couple of Ukrainian savouries.
The train for Chop left on time; I swear it was older than Stephenson’s Rocket; it rocked and rolled, banged and clattered, lurching its way to Chop, arriving on time at 09:12 hrs. Now, the interesting part; to get from Chop to Záhony, the Hungarian border town on the opposite side of the Tisza river. Záhony to Chop can be done by taxi; Chop to Záhony cannot be done by taxi; unless you are very lucky and a Hungarian taxi is at hand.
You are reliant upon the ‘maybe soon, maybe not soon, maybe not today’ shuttle train; the ticket office advised me there was a train scheduled for 10:00 hrs; I bought my ticket; 22 hryvnia (50 p). The Customs opens when the train arrives on the inward leg; you need to be on the ball because Customs closes soon after. You are then left in a room waiting for the ‘maybe soon’ departure. Today, my luck was in; departure 10:20 hrs.
An interesting concept now, for we arrived in Záhony at 09:35 hrs; 45 minutes before we left Chop; we gain one hour as we cross the river. The train to Budapest was waiting on the very next platform, departing 10:03 hrs; Záhony, arriving Nyíregyháza 11:14 hrs. Time for the essentials and a quick strong black before the 11:34 hrs from Nyíregyháza to Budapest Nyugati, arriving 14:37 hrs.
It is necessary to pay for a seat on the express from Nyíregyháza to Budapest Nyugati. This is, of course, what so hindered Ukrainian refugees eighteen months ago; without money, without possibilities. Our first involvement was the help these very people; we have come a long way.
As the journey was progressing swimmingly, I decided to extend to Esztergom, to spend the evening with Gyuri, twin brother of Peter the Priest; I had 14 minutes in Budapest Nyugati before catching the 14:51 hrs, arriving to Esztergom at 15:56 hrs.
19:23 hrs train departs Kyiv-Pasazhyrskyi
07:54 hrs train arrives Uzhhorod
08:28 hrs train departs Uzhhorod
09:12 hrs train arrives Chop (Ukraine Border)
10:20 hrs train departs Chop
09:35 hrs train arrives Záhony (Hungary Border)
10.03 hrs train departs Záhony
11.14 hrs train arrives Nyíregyháza
11:34 hrs train departs Nyíregyháza
14:37 hrs train arrives Budapest Nyugati
14:51 hrs train departs Budapest Nyugati
15:56 hrs train arrives Esztergom
A long road from Kyiv-Pasazhyrskyi to Esztergom; the equivalent of Lands End to John O’Groats. Mr Google tells me 1,147 kms with a quickest time of 21 hours 47 minutes by train. Wrong, 21 hours 33 minutes.
Gyuri and I headed for dinner at Kozepkori Parasztetterem (today’s picture), set in a medieval theme with staff dressed and acting accordingly; treatment in the medieval style with, firstly, a clumsy slap on the shoulder with the menu. You eat with a knife and with your fingers, without a fork; the food is excellent, very generous dishes; tough treatment, I have been before, pure theatre; cash only, of course. There is a gruesome metal cage that diners can enter at their peril; the axe man descends, clattering the cage; the cage is padlocked; there’s a price to pay for freedom.
A thoroughly pleasant catch-up evening with Gyuri; in the early days, he drove the minivan with food and aid for the refugees in Uzhhorod; a lasting connection.
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