Today’s picture shows the ‘Memorial Cubes’ in Uzzhorod.
The big fella chugged away through the night, some rocking, some rolling. I was in Wagon 8, Bed 23; small compartments with four beds; two up, two down. Each carriage has an attendant who brings tea and coffee. There is an extended stop in Lviv for an engine change, some additional wagons (carriages) and, banging and clattering; but it was 02:00 hrs and v-e-r-y cold so I did not venture out.
My cabin companions were perfect; there are, of course, fewer and fewer men on the trains, fearful of being caught and sent to the front line. Male cabin companions tend to begin with a smile, a welcome and some arm waving; I reply ‘sorry, English’. This invariably brings about an ‘Ohhhh; you drink vodka’; an instruction, not a question. And then, Mother’s or Grandmother’s home-made goodies appear; but, this trip, no vodka, no Mother’s goodies.
I knew little until folk began to stir in readiness for arrival at Kyiv-Pasazhyrskyi; we pulled into the platform ten minutes late after a journey of more than twelve hours. From here, it’s a short walk across the station plaza to take the metro; people go about their daily lives much as in any other city; the coffee kiosks and snack bars bustling with commuters; much as you would expect in any capital city. But, a look to the skyline and tall, disfigured buildings reveal that all is not well.
I enter Vokzalna (Ukrainian: Вокзальна) station on Kyiv metro’s Sviatoshynsko-Brovarska Line (Line 1 – The Red line). The station opened along with the Metro on 6 November 1960; decoratively reminiscent of the 1950’s stations seen in Moscow metro. I tap my debit card and the barrier opens; 19 pence for a single journey of any distance; it’s rush-hour; the trains are packed; it’s heads down, scrum down; crouch, bind, set, engage, push; health and safety at it once was.
From here, it’s two stops to Teatralna (Ukrainian: Театральна); I take the pedestrian walkway connecting to Zoloti Vorota (Ukrainian: Золоті́ воро́та) station on the Syretsko-Pecherska Line (Line 3 – The Green Line). The station is located beside the city’s Golden Gate, from which the station takes its name. An altogether more pleasant experience heading out of town; seven stops, including a stunningly panoramic crossing of the Dnipro, to Slavutych (Ukrainian: Славутич), a relatively new station, opened on 30 December 1992, Slavutych being an old name of the Dnipro river.
Dmitry, my host, collected me for the short drive to his home in the Osokorky historical neighbourhood, on the ‘left bank’ of the river. We arrived at 09:00 hrs (07:00 hrs UK time); 35 hours door to door. Shower, breakfast and morning siesta.
The afternoon was spent planning for the days ahead; re-connecting, reacquainting; there will be busy days. In the evening, Oleg, my co-host arrived (Dmitry and Oleg are brothers-in-law: Dmitry’s wife in France; Oleg’s wife in Truro) with what seemed like half the butcher’s shop; ‘Nick, I have special welcome drink’; Georgian Iverioni brandy; ‘Georgian brandy recreated by original recipe of IX Century’.
The barbecue fired up; I was last here in July; there was plenty of catching up to do; a wonderful evening with hosts who have become more than just close friends, so generous and kind to me and hugely supportive of all that we try to do.
Time for bed said Zebedee … … …
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